Day 12: Monday 9 July

After a short trip along the sea-front I made my way to the intensely aromatic Wellington's for spices - sweets, condiments, sauces and all the spices you could think of sold loosely or in packets.

Lots of shops selling cheap household goods nearby, so I browsed around to see if I'd pick up anything interesting. Lost my way until I exited at the Grand Parade. The rain was drizzling down. Seagulls scavanged among the street children who seemed to be on a glue-induced high. Street traders were putting in the extra effort to attract business before closing-time. A mixture of aromas mixed with those of the spices in Wellington's: a fish-and-chip shop, and fast-food outlets selling a traditional Capetown speciality called a Gatsby (sausage). I crossed the street to where a group of homeless people had set up house below the monument to the Anglo-Boer War, under the inscription 'Never a King had more loyal subjects'. Nearby is a statue of King Edward VII, his name crossed out with a line of red paint. Huddling in a doorway just up the road was a group of boys, one of them with only one leg, looking pretty miserable. I gave them all my spare cash, then had to almost fight me off as they seemed intent on following my everywhere.

After eventually shaking off the kids I was feeling peckish, so I headed for the Moroccan Cafe, just around the corner from the hotel, which was recommended by Romie. There were gay mags plastered all over the door, and after entering I could see the waiter was bent as a corkscrew, but I'd already committed myself. The beef curry (Malay style, with banana and coconut) was great.

That evening popped into the Irish pub McGinty's to try a pint of Guinness and a bite to eat. Foxy young barmaids, dressed like schoolgirls in tartan miniskirts, white blouses and ties, flirting with the clients.