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Day 11 Monday 27 May, Surabaya-Singapore
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Flew today from Surabaya to Singapore. Early morning flight—up at 5:00 AM. Made it to the airport in the hotel limousine. No hassles leaving the country (had to pay a tax, though).
Nice to be in Singapore, after seven days living on nothing but food and water...
The Japanese
Took a roundabout walk taking in Bugis Street and Malay Street and the surrounding areas. These streets are now taken in by the Bugis junction shopping mall, but a hundred years ago, along with Hylam and Malabar Streets, they were part of a large Japanese red-light district. Japan in the nineteenth century was poor, and one of its exports included women from poor areas. In fact Japanese women who served as prostitutes were said to be the third-biggest foreign currency earner for Japan at the turn of the 20th century. They were referred to as "Karayuki-san." There were dozens of Japanese brothels, which the British colonial rulers tolerated to help maintain public order. After World War 1, as Japan grew in power and prosperity, the authorities there put a stop to the export of women.
A Japanese brothel owner donated part of his rubber plantation to be used as a burial ground for young Japanese women who died in destitution, and this later became the burial ground for Japanese residents and then for civilians and soldiers who lost their lives in the battlefield or to illness (now called Japanese Cemetery Park). Over 30,000 captured Japanese soldiers remained in Singapore after the war until they were deported in 1947, after which, as a consequence of war crimes, no Japanese were allowed into Singapore for several years.
The Bugis
The Bugis referred to in the place-names above come from the Bugis people, sea-farers and warriors that roamed the seas of the Malay Archipelego for centuries and who originated from Sulawesi Island. Raffles designated this part of Singapore for their use. The Arab and other Muslim traders (Chulias or native of Madras) were also allocated areas nearby, from which Arab Street traces its origins. There is some information on the history of the Bugis in the shopping mall, but no mention of the poor old "Karayuki-san".
From Raffles' time the Malay Sultan of Singapore lived nearby, at Kampong Glam. He kept a large harem, but in 1824 the ladies fled the palace (the Istana). The British Resident, Crawford, told them they were free to go where they liked, despite the protests of the enraged Sultan.
Checked in at the usual hotel, the East Asian. Spent some time outside listening to the blind busker, who was playing a mixture of Chinese and Western songs.
Later on read up on Japan, in preparation for tomorrow's trip.
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Waterworks at the Bugis Plaza, Singapore. |
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Japanese Karayuki-san. |
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Old Hylam Street, the Japanese quarter. |
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Prayer hall of the Japanese cemetery. |
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A Japanese lady in old Singapore (from a post card). |
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A pint of plain. Food hall, Singapore. |
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