Seoul History Museum

Had brunch (seafood bibimbab) in the international food hall at the Millenium Plaza. My first plans were to take a city tour, but it took some time to find the starting point, and when I arrived found that I'd just missed a bus, and that the next one would not be for an hour. Not keen on hanging around so long, I checked my map and noted that the Seoul History Museum was nearby, so that's where I spent the rest of the afternoon.

This museum makes an interesting comparison with the Edo-Tokyo Museum in Tokyo. The building in Tokyo is far more impressive, being about seven stories high with a very futuristic design. The interior of the Tokyo museum is much more dramatic, with life-size models as well as very detailed scale models. The Seoul museum makes more use of audio-visual technology, which provides a considerable amount of detailed background information, more than I've ever seen in a museum before.

Korean Grandmothers Say

When a baby is born in Korea, they are already considered one year old. So, if you're asked your age in that country, be culturally correct. Be sure to add an extra year to your Western age.

Itaewon

That evening took the subway to Itaewon. This area caters for the American soldiers based in the nearby base (there are approximately 43,000 U.S. troops in 40 bases in South Korea), and as expected is full of bars, restaurants and souvenir shops catering to these. Found a second-hand bookshop close to the mosque, where I was finally able to purchase my Lonely Planet Guide to Korea (at a third of the price it would cost new!). From the Turkish restaurant close to the mosque there is a good view of Seoul.

Joined a black family from Georgia, USA, at a streetside stall for a great dish of sea-food and noodles. The dish wasn't on the menu, but I specified what I wanted, and then several passers-by stopped to order the same, as it looked so good. Among them were Steve and Nick, English lads working with a film production team.

At the next stall was a white American family, a little the worse for wear. One of the women accompanied me to the toilet, one of the smelliest I think I've ever had the misfortune to use (and that's saying something!), while I listened to the groans of disgust from the lady's cubicle. Am I glad I don't have a strong sense of smell! Upon our return, her husband pointed out Hooker's Hill, a street facing opposite, but all I could see were the "hostesses" (you have to pay from 10,000 to 20,000 won to buy them a "lady's drink", which is gone in an instant).

With Steve and Nick went to a Jazz bar. Not sure how I got back to the hotel...

"Ist der Ruf erst ruiniert,
Lebt es sich ganz ungeniert."