We awoke, luckily, on time to disembark from the train at 6:30 AM at Butterworth. The ferry to Penang island was right next to the station, and cost RM2 for one trip, but the return trip was free.

At the bus-stop next to the ferry we made the acquaintance of Don Faust, from the US, a mathematician on a visit here. He had first come to teach in Malaysia in the 1960's, and had experienced the race riots. With Don we had breakfast of rotis (like a small chappati) and sweet tea (despite the entreaties of tanpa gula—without sugar). Don ordered some extra goat soup for us to try (if he saw what the goats around here are brought up on he mightn't be so quick to order it!).

We left Don to phone his family and made our way along Lebuh Chulia, towards an area that contained a number of budget hotels. The first of these we tried, the White House, was booked out, but we then crossed the road and tried the more upmarket Oriental, which had double rooms for RM69, which, while a little more than we were thinking of paying, was a good price for the high-quality air-conditioned rooms.

After a shower and a brief nap we headed off to explore Georgetown. This was where the British first landed in Malaya, when Captain Francis Light established a trading post on Pulau Pinang (betel-nut island) in 1759. He renamed Pulau Kasatu as Prince of Wales Island on 12th August 1786, to commemorate the birthday of the Prince of Wales, later, George IV, and the capital became George Town. I mention this because 12 August happens to be my birthday too!

Georgetown seems to be predominantly Chinese, with many temples and clan shrines, but there is of course a good number of Malays and Indians here. Back in the 18th century, to encourage settlement in the newly formed trading post, Light gave land away to anyone who would settle here. Large numbers of Indians, Chinese, Malays, Burmese, Thais, Sumatrans and Javanese moved in. No doubt their descendents are still around.

Our initial intention of heading for Fort Cornwallis, the British fort, was frustrated by our getting lost, but after traversing the town from end to end and walking around most of the waterfront we managed to find the fort, still protected by the original cannon (one wonders whether they were used against the Japanese...). Living in the shelter of the castle wall were a number of chickens. Apparently they are brought here by couples intending to get married, and are then set free to form families of their own.

The Chapel, the cells, gunpowder magazine and a few cannons remain at the fort. The tiny chapel had its first recorded consummation of marriage in 1799 when Francis Light's widow (she was his common-law wife), Martina Rozells (a lady of Thai-Portuguese descent), was wed to Mr John Timmers.

On our way back to the hotel we managed to get lost again but meandered through many Chinese settlements, stopping off at temples and derelict houses which Mat photographed. As in most historical cities, there is an on-going conflict between thoses who want to preserve these old dwellings, and those who want to raze them for new developments. According to a letter to the paper there are 153 old houses due for demolition. We then strayed into Little India, streets of shops selling Indian goods, clothing, food, which had its own impressive Hindu temple. At one of the stalls we stopped off for a selection of cakes and tea, then headed back via Chulia. At our hotel end of this street there were several money-changers' offices with a good selection of used books (in all kinds of languages) and several cyber-cafes.

After another badly-needed shower we went out for dinner, and ended up in a rather expensive place (not immediately apparent, because, in contrast to every other restaurant in the neighbourhood, they charged extra for rice, and until we insisted, would not sell us the cheaper steamed rice, but wanted us to order separate rice dishes; although they told us they had Tiger beer, when we ordered it they found they had run out, so we had to do with the more expensive Carlsberg). Well, also in contrast to the other restaurants in the vicinity, we seemed to be the only customers, and I can see why!